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Escape!
As you head north across the Golden Gate Bridge to Marin County on 101 you first climb to the Waldo "Rainbow" tunnel then drop down a long winding part of 101 to a short flat section of Sausalito. No matter which Northern destination you're heading for, Tiburon, Kentfield, San Rafael, Novato or Sonoma County, if you do this drive every day on your way home you will no doubt have thought on quite a few occasions that those Sausalito houseboats off to your right, sunning themselves on Richardson Bay, look mighty attractive! If you lived there you'd be home by now - perhaps sitting on your deck, beverage in hand, communing with nature and looking out across the water to the shining white city of San Francisco or perhaps to those poor commuters heading North - still a good many minutes away from their destination.
You are obviously not the first person to have thought this. There are many professionals, artists and others who have accepted some of the few compromises of houseboat living in order to enjoy the tranquil life style, proximity to nature and camaraderie of living in what are more properly called floating homes as they are permanently tethered and quite sizeable.
Early History of Houseboats on the Bay
The history of these homes is long and interesting though we'll only cover the more salient points here. It starts in the latter part of the nineteenth century when some San Francisco home owners established vacation "Arks" around the Bay -especially on the Belvedere Lagoons and Larkspur Creek - where they disported themselves swimming, boating and socializing.
Having lost their homes in the San Francisco earthquake of 1906 some families took up residence in their "Arks" thus establishing a precedent of permanent habitation.
Post World War II
As is well known, Sausalito was heavily involved in World War II - both in building Liberty ships and provisioning ships for the Pacific War. After the war the waterfront was littered with war surplus goods including balloon barges, supply barges, obsolete rail cars and much more. These were the basis of many of the original houseboats and were there for the taking. With some energetic labor and inventiveness many folk were able to create a "free" home for themselves - including a place to put it in Richardson Bay or, more preferably, pulled right up onto the shores of Richardson Bay for easier access to Bridgeway.
Of course it was not long before the folks on the hills overlooking the Bay started to complain about the rag tag flotilla of boats on the shores and "anchored out" on the Bay and, no doubt, about the health hazards perceived to "flow" from their presence.
By the early sixties tensions were rife and the era witnessed what became known as the "Houseboat Wars" involving various factions of houseboaters, floating-home owners, Sausalito City and Marin County authorities. The very limited area under City control (nearest Gate 5 Road/Varga Landing) became legalized with proper arrangements for water, electricity and sewerage disposal. Those proper arrangements were also eventually imposed on the rest of the houseboats, representing the vast majority, in the unincorporated area of Marin County. During the sixties and seventies the houseboats developed their reputation for an unconventional and artistic lifestyle and all the other trappings of the hippie generation. Perhaps sadly, they gradually became more gentrified with the majority of houseboats being replaced by floating homes on professionally made steel-reinforced concrete barges (a la AquaMaison). Many of the floating homes are now quite spacious and extremely well (if somewhat idiosyncratically) decorated.
The Amenities
The Sausalito houseboat area has great access to extensive biking and walking trails. A ferry service runs to the San Francisco Ferry Building. The trip takes 25 to 30 minutes.
Many of the hillside homes in Sausalito have no garage or permanent parking but the floating home residents have adequate parking so that is a decided advantage.
For those wanting to be close to nature the floating homes of Sausalito might be hard to beat. At least ten migratory bird species utilize Richardson Bay as part of their winter migration and at least twenty-three species are permanent residents.
Being close to nature comes with some inconvenience in terms of schlepping groceries and garbage along the piers but clearly the many long-term residents are willing to pay the price which also includes, as well as land taxes, fairly substantial "dock" fees up to about $1200 a month.
However, when you can be woken by the calls of seabirds, watch the sun rise over the Bay and set over Mt Tamalpais, live in the tranquility of a laissez-faire community and have an easy walk to the many and varied shops and restaurants in Sausalito; what more could you want - especially when it's all at a fraction of the price the "nobs" on the hills pay for equivalent accommodations.
Want to start living this dream? Please contact me so that I can show you your options in this unique community.
Cosmo anyone? Cheers! Nicole Burton |